Lovina: The Peaceful Heart of Bali,Underwater Paradise
Lovina, a peaceful haven on Bali’s northern coast, offers a gentle beauty distinct from the island’s bustling south. Its unique black-sand beaches and calm waters set the stage for a truly magical experience at dawn, when the rising sun casts a shimmering golden layer across the sea. This is the moment when pods of dolphins leap and dance, putting on a breathtaking display that feels both intimate and wild. Beyond the shoreline, Lovina’s charm continues inland with lush, green landscapes and a peaceful, slow-paced atmosphere, solidifying its reputation as a place of serene wonder and quiet majesty.
1.Dolphin Watching in Lovina: A Sunrise Story
Lovina truly is a gem in Bali, a place you absolutely must visit. After a quick tea, we set off for our highly anticipated dolphin hunt – this is undoubtedly the best place to witness dolphins in the open sea. The beach was a mere two-minute walk from our accommodation, and we had already booked our boat the previous night through the hotel.
We approached our charming vessel, distinctive with two wooden outriggers mounted on each side, and waited for our fellow passenger. Once she arrived, the boat master invited everyone aboard, placing a wooden plank for easy boarding. As he started the engine and we glided into the open sea, the magical first rays of the sun began to strike the water. Wow, the ocean instantly transformed into a shimmering golden layer, creating an astonishing view all around us.
While we were still soaking in the breathtaking scenery, we heard cheerful shouts from nearby boats: “Look! Look!” A group of dolphins gracefully emerged from the water, cutting through that golden surface – what a show! I had never seen real dolphins in my life, and it was a truly breathtaking sight. Within seconds, hundreds of boats converged in that direction, everyone exhilarated to be witnessing such magic.
Suddenly, the dolphins disappeared back into the water. Every boat master began to search for them again, until shouts erupted from another side, sending all the boats scurrying towards the new sighting. After a while, there were no more dolphins to be seen, and the boat masters started venturing deeper into the sea, but still, nothing.
Our boat master, however, took a different direction. Ten minutes later, he brought us to a spot where only ten or twenty other boats were gathered. Everyone was patiently waiting for another glimpse of the dolphins. Then, as if by wonder, everyone started shouting towards us, “Look down! Look down!” And there they were – right beneath our boat! They put on a spectacular show for us, and we were incredibly thankful to our boat master for finding them.
After a while, some people from our boat went into the water, wearing masks and holding onto a rope attached to the boat, attempting to see the dolphins underwater. But there was nothing. Soon, the man who had gone into the water came up, saying he hadn’t seen anything, but warned others to be careful as he had been stung by some jellyfish.
As the sun began to shine brightly, our boat master announced it was time to head back. On the way, I turned to Sabine and pondered aloud, “Are we disturbing the dolphins in the morning?” She smiled, understanding my thoughts perfectly. “No,” she replied, “the dolphins are enjoying it too; that’s why they’re giving us a show. Otherwise, they could simply go a little deeper into the ocean, and we wouldn’t be able to see them at all.”
Nearest airport : Denpasar International Airport
Currency : Indonesian Rupiah
Languages : Indonesian (Bahasa Indonesia) , Balinese (Basa Bali)
where to stay in lovina
The Binaria Museum Hotel, The restaurant had a wonderful ambiance, and we ordered some juice to relax. I was immediately drawn to the intricate carvings on the walls, admiring them closely. On one side, there was a well-designed bar counter where people could sit on high chairs and enjoy a beer or vodka. The staff were notably friendly.
While I was walking around, Sabine was deep in conversation with a man dressed in traditional Balinese attire. She waved me over, and as I approached, he introduced himself as the restaurant’s manager. Sabine then told me they also had rooms available, so we decided to take a look.
The entrance was small, almost like the entrance to a temple. In front of the door, water flowed gently, and on the other side, there were several Buddha statues. A large bell hung above us. Looking back at the water feature, I noticed a subtle Sivalinga, with water flowing through it into the small pond beneath, where tiny fish swam.
We stepped through the door into a short hall before another door. Passing through it, we found ourselves in a beautiful garden. Just inside, there was a small area for lighting lamps, topped with a Buddha head. I was completely focused on it when Sabine pointed out a large mirror beneath it, reflecting both of us.
We crossed the approximately ten-meter garden, which had trees bursting with flowers in its center, and followed the manager. He led us to a room at the very end and opened it – a spacious room with an open-air bathroom. He explained it was the only room left. Sabine and I exchanged a look, and without hesitation, we said, “We’ll take it!”
small story about a night
Before getting into our snorkeling story, I have to tell you about what happened last night. At our hotel, we were treated to an amazing classical dance show. The artist was incredible, bringing a story from the Ramayana to life with such skill. It lasted about fifteen minutes, and it really made me think of all the different Indian classical dance forms.
After the show, Sabine and I decided to go for dinner at a restaurant we had spotted that morning after our dolphin hunt. We walked down to the beach, where in the center, a tall pillar stood with a dolphin crowned in gold. That pillar perfectly symbolized why Lovina is so famous for dolphins. The streetlights were good, and many people were gathered around the small food stalls near the beach. It was nice to see that most of them were local Balinese people, just enjoying a snack after their day.
The restaurant we chose was right on the sand, with small tables and big beanbags and cushions laid out. We found a spot where we could sit and feel the sand between our toes as we looked out at the sea. It was just Sabine and me at first, and after a moment, a waiter came to take our order. We just asked for two juices to relax.
A little later, a girl from France arrived and took a seat nearby. We started talking and learned it was her first day in Lovina, and she had a long list of things she wanted to do. As we talked, our juices arrived. Over by a tree, a guy was gently preparing for a fire show. With fireballs tied to a ribbon, he came over in front of us and slowly began his performance. We sat there, just the three of us, completely enjoying the private show.
I felt like he wasn’t happy just performing for the three of us. I looked at Sabine and asked if we should take over the show, and she smiled and said yes. I went over to him and asked how to handle the ribbons. He explained the basics to me, and I stepped onto a small wooden box on the sand and started swinging the flaming ribbons around my body. I was only wearing a lungi I had brought back from India, a flower from Bali tucked behind my ear, and my mala that I had dipped in the Ganga. The music was perfect, and I began to dance. It was amazing; it had been so long since I’d danced like that, not since Rishikesh.
Then, Sabine took over the show. She was an incredible performer. She started with the ribbons and fire, and then the fire show man gave her a flaming ring and showed her how to play with it. A quick learner, she immediately started moving it around her hip—it was something I never expected! To our surprise, the girl from France also joined in, adding to the fun.
As we were playing with the fire, a crowd slowly started to gather. One person after another came, but we didn’t stop. We kept the show going and even invited others to join in. Our firemaster looked so happy now. We started to sing and enjoy ourselves, and people from other restaurants and places on the beach began to gather. Within half an hour, the entire site was full, with most of the people sitting on the sand with small tables in front of them, all part of the unexpected show we had created.
Now our fire master, even more excited, asked us if we were ready to play “foot ball.” We immediately said yes. Meanwhile, the owner of the restaurant was so happy that he came over to me and asked me to have a shot with him. I agreed, and after our shots, the game began. The “ball” was amazing—a coconut burning on fire! Our fire master explained how to kick it, and just like that, the game started. We were running around like monkeys with a fiery coconut, and it was no longer just the three of us; more than two dozen people had joined in. The owner of the restaurant was overjoyed and kept pouring peg after peg for me. It was a truly amazing night.
At the very end, when we went to pay the bill, the owner stopped the manager and said, “Don’t take money from them. This is their show.” I was so happy to hear him say, “this is our show.” With that, we went back to our room.
2.Snorkeling and Diving in Lovina
This morning, I got out of bed a little late. After quickly finishing breakfast, we hurried for our next adventure: snorkeling and scuba diving, one of the main attractions in Lovina. A long-haired man introduced himself as our guide and guardian for the trip, a young man full of life. We all got into a small bus with our snorkeling equipment, and our guide came prepared with a lunch bag for us.
After riding for about an hour, we reached a boat landing. We all got into the boat, a mix of people from different continents who had also come for this sea adventure. The boat moved quickly through the water, and as we got closer to our destination, I could see a distinct change in the color of the water.
After receiving proper guidance from our trainer, everyone put on their equipment and jumped into the water, which was crystal clear. It was then that I truly understood how different swimming in the sea is from swimming in a river. The view underwater was amazing; it was my first time seeing marine life like that. I also noticed that everyone around me seemed to be a pro swimmer. My guide, came close and said, “Don’t worry, I am here. Just enjoy it.” The coral life and the incredible variety of fish in different colors made it an adventure of a lifetime. After about half an hour, I got exhausted and, still feeling dehydrated from the day before, I went back to the deck.
When everyone was finished at that spot, we headed to another one. It was an island with a Ganesha temple on the other side. We had our lunch there and even saw some deer roaming around. After a little while, we all got back into the water to continue exploring. The clear waters of Lovina truly give you a new level of life experience. I would tell anyone who goes to Bali that they must explore this for themselves.
3.Aling-Aling: Where Waterfalls Meet Adventure
The path to Aling-Aling Waterfall was a verdant corridor, every step deeper into Bali’s lush embrace. While each cascade required an entry fee, the experience was undoubtedly worth it. Upon purchasing our tickets, we were assigned a local guide who greeted us warmly and motioned us forward, thoughtfully carrying two bottles of water. He led the way, his steps sure, as we followed down a series of steps into the valley. Despite the sunny day, the dense canopy of trees provided a welcome shield from the heat. We reached a initial viewpoint, but our guide indicated we needed to ascend further. We continued our journey, climbing more steps, and with each upward stride, the roar of the waterfall grew louder. Finally, a turn and a descent revealed the magnificent Aling-Aling Waterfall, a truly grand sight before us.
The air near the waterfall was blissfully cool, and the entire place exuded a profound sense of calm. Sitting near the base, I realized how deceptive distance can be; the waterfall that appeared small from afar was, in fact, an immense and powerful cascade up close.
After a while, we moved further down, finding ourselves between the first and second falls. Here, a smaller cascade offered a thrilling opportunity for a natural slide. Though I was nervous at first, uncertain of the depth, Sabine encouraged me, and we took the plunge. It was pure fun—a must-do experience for anyone visiting. Across from the slide, people were enthusiastically cliff jumping into the water. My confidence bolstered, I took the leap and jumped straight in. It was clear our guide and the other local workers were exceptional swimmers, a comforting sight.
Our guide then suggested we head to the largest of the falls. On the way, we passed a small temple. I’ve always admired the way Balinese people treat their temples; it’s a unique and amazing reverence, distinct from the traditions I’ve seen in India. We arrived at the top of the third waterfall, a formidable fifteen-meter drop. After witnessing my earlier jump, our guide playfully asked if I wanted to jump from here. I smiled and politely declined. As we walked down, he told us a story of a tourist who had broken her spine after a bad landing. I joked with him, “You intend to kill me?” He simply smiled and replied, “Absolutely not.” At the base of this final waterfall was a place where we could swim, a quiet spot most people don’t venture to. Sabine and I swam peacefully, and I noticed a swing on the side, a simple sight that brought back fond memories of home.
With a heart full of memories, we returned to our room, the day’s adventures replaying in my mind.
4.Finding Peace at Brahmavihara-Arama: Bali's Largest Buddhist Monastery
You chose a perfect change of pace for today! After the high-octane adventures of Aling-Aling, a serene visit to Brahmavihara-Arama sounds like just what you needed, even if it meant a slightly later start.
It’s interesting how plans can shift, isn’t it? One day no adventure, the next you’re exploring a beautiful Buddhist monastery. Your detail about the shawls at the entrance (even for a fee, which is indeed common for maintaining such sites and providing the wraps) highlights the respectful entry into a sacred space, keeping local customs alive.
And then, stepping down into the tranquil grounds to find that impressive standing Buddha surrounded by lotus flowers and other statues – that’s a truly beautiful image. It’s wonderful that you took the time to observe everything closely.
Your discussion about the snails on Buddha’s head and its story adds a fascinating, reflective layer to your visit. For anyone unfamiliar, this refers to the traditional depiction of the Buddha’s coiled hair, which is often said to represent 108 snails that crawled onto his head to protect him from the sun as he meditated, sacrificing themselves for his enlightenment. It’s a lovely piece of Buddhist lore that enriches the experience of viewing these statues.
We continued our exploration, grateful for the sparse number of tourists. The upward steps led us to a series of astonishing constructions, beautifully painted and exuding an overwhelming sense of peace. The dragons adorning the steps were marvelous, and the building’s roof, covered in black paddy leaves, added to its unique charm.
The true highlight for me was the Buddha statue nestled under a banyan tree. This was a simple, unfussy spot, perfect for quiet meditation. Light rays filtering through the leaves imbued the Buddha with a vibrant color, his head seemingly glowing with an inner luminescence.
As we traversed the largest monastery in Bali, I spotted a magnificent gateway perched atop a hill. Nothing, in my opinion, can rival the beauty of Bali’s gateways. People were eagerly queuing to take photos, with a designated person managing the shots. Sabine and I opted for a leisurely walk through the gardens instead. After a while, when the others had finished, we returned to capture our own amazing pictures for our travel book.
Finally, we entered the main prayer hall, which housed an array of diverse Buddha statues. I simply sat there for a while, soaking in the profound spiritual atmosphere. Upon exiting, I discovered a serene pond in front of the building, teeming with blue and pink lotus flowers. And right in the center, amidst the blossoms, sat a beautifully meditating Buddha – a truly captivating sight.
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This is a wonderful journey through Bali
thank you
Rahul
